Pork Stir-Fry Lo Mein (Chicken)

Published September 1, 2008. From Cook’s Illustrated.

Serves 4.

Why this recipe works:

For a lo mein recipe with chewy noodles tossed in a salty-sweet sauce and accented with bits of smoky pork and still-crisp cabbage, we seared strips of meat from country-style pork ribs over high heat, adding liquid smoke for barbecue flavor. We used our meat marinade as a sauce base, with a little chicken broth and a teaspoon of cornstarch for added body. In the absence of lo mein noodles from an Asian market, we found that dried linguine worked beautifully in our stir-fried noodles recipe.

Use a cast-iron skillet for this recipe if you have one—it will help create the best sear on the pork. When shopping for Chinese rice wine, look for one that is amber in color; if not available, sherry wine may be used as a substitute. If no hoisin sauce is available, substitute 1 tablespoon of sugar. If boneless pork ribs are unavailable, substitute 1 1/2 pounds of bone-in country-style ribs, followed by the next best option, pork tenderloin. Liquid smoke provides a flavor reminiscent of the Chinese barbecued pork traditional to this dish. It is important that the noodles are cooked at the last minute to avoid clumping. See below for information on buying noodles.

Ingredients

  • 3tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2tablespoons oyster sauce
  • 2tablespoons hoisin sauce (see note)
  • 1tablespoon toasted sesame oil
  • 1/4teaspoon five-spice powder
  • 1pound boneless country-style pork ribs , trimmed of surface fat and excess gristle and sliced crosswise into 1/8-inch pieces (see note) (I used chicken thigh)
  • 1/4teaspoon liquid smoke (optional)
  • 1/2cup low-sodium chicken broth
  • 1teaspoon cornstarch
  • 2medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
  • 2teaspoons grated fresh ginger
  • 4 1/2teaspoons vegetable oil
  • 4tablespoons Chinese rice cooking wine (Shao-Xing) or dry sherry (see note)
  • 1/2pound shiitake mushrooms , stems trimmed, caps cut in halves or thirds (about 3 cups)
  • 2bunches scallions , whites thinly sliced and greens cut into 1-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
  • 1small head Napa or Chinese cabbage , halved, cored, and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch strips (about 4 cups)
  • 12ounces Chinese egg noodles (fresh) or 8 ounces dried linguine (see note)
  • 1tablespoon Asian chile garlic sauce

Instructions

  1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven over high heat.
  2. Whisk soy sauce, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce, sesame oil, and five-spice powder together in medium bowl. Place 3 tablespoons soy sauce mixture in large zipper-lock bag; add pork and liquid smoke, if using. Press out as much air as possible and seal bag, making sure that all pieces are coated with marinade. Refrigerate at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour. Whisk broth and cornstarch into remaining soy sauce mixture in medium bowl. In separate small bowl, mix garlic and ginger with 1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil; set aside.
  3. Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in 12-inch cast-iron or nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of pork in single layer, breaking up clumps with wooden spoon. Cook, without stirring, 1 minute. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons wine to skillet; cook, stirring constantly, until liquid is reduced and pork is well coated, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer pork to medium bowl and repeat with remaining pork, 1 teaspoon oil, and remaining 2 tablespoons wine. Wipe skillet clean with paper towels.
  4. Return skillet to high heat, add 1 teaspoon vegetable oil, and heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add scallions and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until scallions are wilted, 2 to 3 minutes longer; transfer vegetables to bowl with pork.
  5. Add remaining teaspoon vegetable oil and cabbage to now-empty skillet; cook, stirring occasionally, until spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Clear center of skillet; add garlic-ginger mixture and cook, mashing mixture with spoon, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir garlic mixture into cabbage; return pork-vegetable mixture and chicken broth-soy mixture to skillet; simmer until thickened and ingredients are well incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat.
  6. While cabbage is cooking, stir noodles into boiling water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender, 3 to 4 minutes for fresh Chinese noodles or
    10 minutes for dried linguine. Drain noodles and transfer back to Dutch oven; add cooked stir-fry mixture and garlic-chili sauce, tossing noodles constantly, until sauce coats noodles. Serve immediately.

Shopping

Noodles for Lo Mein: Developing the recipe for our Pork Stir-Fry with Noodles, we discovered that not any old noodle will do.

BEST BET
The slightly dry and curly fresh egg noodles labeled “lo mein” from an Asian market boasted firm texture and the best flavor.
BEST ALTERNATIVE
Dried linguine, though not authentic, offered a firm chewiness similar to lo mein.

NO THANKS
Vacuum-packed fresh noodles from the grocery store labeled “Chinese-style” were gummy and pasty.

P.F. Chang’s Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wraps

Servings: 2 (I doubled the recipe)
Difficulty: Easy
Cook Time: 1-30 min

While working on the formula for P.F. Chang’s Vegetarian Lettuce Wraps, I discovered that there were several ways I could improve the clone recipe for the Chicken Wraps. I’ve now perfected the flavor of the stir-fry with the addition of mirin (a sweetened sake syrup) and oyster sauce, both of which you can find in your market where the Asian foods are stocked. The “special sauce” that you spoon over your wraps has also been tweaked and perfected. And finally, after reducing the amount of chicken from two breasts filets to just one, I think this new and improved version of P.F. Chang’s most popular dish is the absolute best
clone it can be.

Ingredients

  • Special sauce
  • 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 1/8 teaspoon chili oil
  • 2 tablespoons chopped green onion
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon Chinese hot mustard paste (see Tidbits)
  • 1 to 3 teaspoons chili garlic sauce

Stir-fry sauce

  • 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • 2 tablespoons mirin
  • 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
  • 2 teaspoons rice vinegar
  • 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 large skinless chicken breast filet
  • 1 8-ounce can water chestnuts, drained and minced (about 1 cup)
  • 1 6-ounce can diced straw mushrooms, drained and minced (about
    2/3 cup)
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 3 tablespoons chopped green onion
  • 1 to 1 1/2 cups fried maifun rice sticks (see Tidbits)
  • 4 to 5 iceberg lettuce cups

Directions

Make the special sauce (for spooning over your lettuce wraps) by dissolving the sugar in the water in a small bowl. Add the soy sauce, rice vinegar, and chili oil. Add the chopped green onion and set the sauce aside until you’re ready to serve the lettuce wraps. Eventually you will add Chinese mustard and garlic chili sauce to this special sauce mixture to pour over each of your lettuce wraps. In the restaurant, waiters prepare the sauce at your table the same way based on your desired heat level. We’ll get into the specifics of that in step #7. Prepare the stir-fry sauce by mixing all of the ingredients together in a small bowl.

To prepare the filling for your lettuce wraps, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a large saute pan or wok over high heat. Saute the chicken breast for 4 to 5 minutes per side, or until cooked through. Remove the chicken from the pan to cool. Wipe out the pan. As the chicken cools, chop your water chestnuts and mushrooms into pieces that are about the size of small peas. If you haven’t fried the maifun rice sticks, this is a good time to do that.

When you can handle the chicken, hack it up with a sharp knife so that no piece is bigger than a dime. With the pan or wok back on high heat, add the 3 remaining tablespoons of oil. When the oil is hot, add the chicken, water chestnuts, mushrooms, and garlic to the pan. Cook the mixture for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the stir-fry sauce to the pan and saute the mixture for a couple more minutes, then stir in the green onions and spoon everything out onto a bed of fried maifun rice noodles on a serving dish.

Serve the chicken with a side of lettuce cups. Make these lettuce cups by slicing the top off of a head of iceberg lettuce right through the middle of the head. Pull your lettuce cups off of the outside of this slice.

Prepare the special sauce at the table by adding your desired measurement of hot mustard and chili sauce to the special sauce blend: 1 teaspoon of chili garlic sauce for mild, ½ teaspoon of mustard paste plus 2 teaspoons chili garlic sauce for medium, and 1 teaspoon of mustard paste and 3 teaspoons of chili garlic sauce for hot. Stir well.

Assemble each lettuce wrap by spooning the filling into a lettuce cup, adding special sauce over the top and eating it
like a taco.

Tidbits: Follow the directions on the package for frying the maifun rice sticks — usually by pouring 2 inches of vegetable
oil into a pan and heating it to around 400 degrees F. Add the maifun, and when it floats to the top remove it to a paper towel.

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Sesame Rings (Spain)

Prep Time: 25 min
Inactive Prep Time: 30 min
Cook Time: 20 min

Serves: about 40 cookies (for me it made about 20 but they were bigger than mini-bagels)

These Sephardic Jewish cookies are usually served at Shabbat (Sabbath) dinners and on holidays. We loved the savory sesame flavor so much that we added tahini to the dough to help showcase it. They store well, so they’re excellent cookies to keep around in case of unexpected guests.
Ingredients
  • 4 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder1/2 teaspoon fine salt
  • 3 large whole eggs, at room temperature
  • 2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
  • 1 1/4 cups sugar
  • 1/4 cup tahini (sesame paste)
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Sesame Glaze:

  • 1 large egg white, lightly beaten
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 1/2 cup hulled raw sesame seeds

Directions
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with silicone mats or parchment, or coat them with nonstick cooking spray.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt together in a medium bowl.
Beat the eggs and yolks with the sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer until very light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the tahini, oil and vanilla. Stir in the flour mixture until combined to make a soft dough. Cover the dough and set aside for 5 minutes before forming into rings.

Pinch off a walnut-sized piece of dough and roll it into a rope that is about 5 inches long and 3/8-inch thick. (Dust your hands and the parchment lightly with flour if the dough is sticky.) Pinch the ends of the rope together to form a ring. Repeat until all the dough has been formed into rings.

To glaze the cookies: Put the sesame seeds on a small plate. Whisk the egg white and honey together, and then brush each ring with the mixture. Then immediately dip the ring into the sesame seeds. Place the rings seeds side up, on the prepared baking sheet at least 1 inch apart.

Bake rings until lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer from baking sheet and cool on wire racks. Serve.

Busy baker’s tips: These cookies keep for a couple weeks stored in an airtight container at room temperature. They can also be double-wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for up to a month.